Times Past in Korea by Martin Uden

Author:Martin Uden [Uden, Martin]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: History, Asia, Korea, Social Science, Ethnic Studies, General, Regional Studies
ISBN: 9781136641190
Google: ygz2jagkBUIC
Publisher: Routledge
Published: 2012-10-12T15:54:09+00:00

25 June 1894

Henry Norman – People and Politics of the Far East

The great monastery in the mountains is one of those chosen and built by a militant Korean sect to serve, according to need, either as a retreat for the spirit or a refuge for the body. The monks themselves do not look very warlike, but the situation of the monastery is an almost impregnable one. It can be reached by only one road, a long steep stony path, in which ‘a thousand might well be stopped by three’; behind it on two sides are mountains of rock, and on the fourth it is secluded by a very deep and precipitous ravine through which dashes a noisy torrent. The central buildings, on the edge of the ravine, shown in my photograph, are the sacred apartments of the king, entered by only one attendant, and they are kept in perfect preservation and hourly readiness for his coming. When I woke in the morning I found myself in the midst of great heavy-eaved temples through the open doors of which could be seen the solemn faces of squatting gilded gods, while already half a dozen priests were bending before the altars with incense and drum.

All the buildings of An-byön are in the style to which the traveller so soon gets used in the East – rectangular wooden structures with high-peaked roofs and richly-carved curving eaves, generally with three doors at one side and the chief idol facing the largest central entrance. Before him are sets of altar utensils and little brass tallow lamps, and joss-sticks which the pious visitor purchases for a few cash and lights at his prayers. The walls are covered with silk and brocade, mostly very old and time-stained; the ceiling is marvellously carved and gilded, perhaps a huge dragon appearing at one end and worming himself in and out of the masses of ornament to the other; and innumerable gongs and drums invite the hand of the too willing pilgrim. The interior of these temples is tawdry, but the massiveness of the wooden architecture, its bright colours, its picturesquely contrived vistas of gate and gable and column and pavilion, taken together with the wonderful natural situation of the place, form an impressive and romantic spectacle. The most curious sight in the monastery, however, is four huge idols of brilliantly painted wood, carved with a good deal of appreciation of the heroic human face and form, which stare at one another across a narrow passage from behind the bars of two great cages, a pair of war-gods being on one side, and a king and queen (the latter playing a colossal mandolin) on the other. My Japanese vocabulary unfortunately did not permit me to make through my interpreter any inquiries as to their abstract theologic significance. The headgear of the monks beggars description, and I held my sides again and again as a new specimen emerged from the dormitories. Hats of paper, of wood, of bamboo, of horsehair, and

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